Peru - Volcanoes, Vicuñas, and the Vibrant Heart of the Andes

This spring, I returned to one of my favorite countries - Peru - for a journey that took me beyond the well-trodden paths of Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. I’ve been fortunate to visit twice before: once hiking the iconic Inca Trail and later traveling by train to the ancient citadel, with time in Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and eco-lodges deep in the Amazon basin. But Peru has a way of calling you back. Its people, culture, and landscapes stay with you, and I knew there was more to discover.

This time, I ventured into new regions: the breathtaking highlands of the Colca Canyon, the colonial elegance of Arequipa, and the vibrant, untamed Amazon. Like my past visits, this journey was rich with awe-inspiring beauty, cultural depth, and soul-stirring encounters - reminding me once again of the strength, warmth, and spirit that define Peru.

Colca Valley: Where Earth and Sky Embrace

My adventure began in the high Andes, where the winding road from Arequipa to the Colca Valley took us through landscapes shaped by both time and tectonics. Surrounded by active and dormant volcanoes, we climbed to Mirador de los Andes, a summit reaching 16,100 feet, with panoramic views of seven volcanoes.

Along the way, we passed through a vast nature preserve protecting Peru’s iconic camelids: llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas. Once endangered, vicuñas now thrive and are so revered they appear on the national coat of arms.

After a brief stop in Chivay, the valley’s capital, we arrived at our magical retreat: Belmond Las Casitas. Nestled into the hillside above the Colca River, this property was pure Andean paradise. Our thatched-roof casita featured a private terrace, outdoor shower, and hot tub under the stars. But it was the thoughtful details - welcome notes written on leaves, hot water bottles tucked into bed - that made it unforgettable.

We spent mornings feeding baby llamas and alpacas (sweet Miski, the four-month-old llama, stole our hearts!) and visiting ancient sites in nearby villages. A stop at Chacapi Hot Springs in Yanque offered soothing views and crazy zip lines over the Colca River, including one on a bicycle. Happily, our feet stayed on the ground as we watched!

One of the most meaningful moments during our stay at Las Casitas came during a gratitude ceremony rooted in Inca tradition. We learned the symbolism of the chakana and the condor, puma, and serpent - spiritual messengers of the Andean world. We offered coca leaves to the fire, shared our intentions, and left with a profound sense of connection and peace.

On our final day, we were lucky enough to witness Andean condors, the largest flying birds in the world, soaring above Colca Canyon. With wingspans over 10 feet, their graceful presence was awe-inspiring - we counted 17 in total. A magical finale to our time in the highlands.

Arequipa: The White City with a Golden Soul

From Colca, we traveled across the Andean pampa once more, past herds of llamas, alpacas, and wild vicuñas, before arriving in Arequipa. Known as La Ciudad Blanca, its gleaming architecture made of white volcanic sillar stone shines under the southern sun.

We stayed at Cirqa, a beautifully restored convent and Relais & Châteaux hotel in the heart of Old Town. The historical charm of the building set the tone for our time in this elegant, vibrant city.

One morning in the district of Cayma, we stumbled upon a joyful school parade—a full marching band and hundreds of students filing into the sanctuary of the Virgin of Candelaria. The energy and color were truly heartwarming.

Later, we paused for a typical breakfast of pork in savory sauce before exploring Yanahuara, a neighborhood known for its colonial arches and sweeping views of Arequipa and Misti volcano, standing like a silent guardian in the distance.

But the most meaningful moment in Arequipa came when we visited El Hogar de Cristo, a shelter supporting vulnerable children. After shopping for ingredients in the bustling San Camilo Market, we joined local mothers and a dedicated chef to cook a meal for 70 children. We chopped, stirred, and served the youngest ones with love.

El Hogar offers more than meals. It’s a safe, nurturing space for children to play, learn, and grow while their parents receive training and psychological support. It was a powerful reminder that travel can be transformative—for both traveler and host.

The Amazon: Heartbeat of the Earth, Aboard the Aria Amazon

From Arequipa, we returned to Lima and flew to Iquitos, where we boarded the Aria Amazon - a sleek, 16-suite luxury river ship custom-built for exploring the rainforest in style. With panoramic windows and intimate, beautifully appointed spaces, the Aria felt like a floating sanctuary.

Each day we ventured deep into the Pacaya Samiria Reserve by skiff, with naturalist guides leading the way. We rose early for birdwatching, paddled through narrow waterways, and set off on jungle hikes where we encountered anacondas, boa constrictors, poison dart frogs, capuchin monkeys, sloths, and pink river dolphins.

One trek brought us face to face with the fer-de-lance, the Amazon’s most venomous snake - a pulse-quickening moment (and a quick end to that day’s hike)! Another revealed armies of leaf-cutter ants and the woolly monkey with its expressive face and prehensile tail.

Back onboard, the Aria’s crew welcomed us with chilled towels, pisco sours, and meals highlighting regional Amazonian flavors. The service was impeccable, and the guides’ passion and knowledge brought the rainforest to life.

Evenings on the river were pure magic - watching lightning storms flicker across the jungle from the upper deck, or sipping sunset cocktails at the convergence of three rivers, considered the symbolic birthplace of the Amazon itself.

We visited remote villages, where we were welcomed with warmth and smiles. We fished for piranhas (yes, I caught two!), made bracelets with local women, and met a beekeeper who tends 60 hives of stingless bees, producing medicinal honey used for everything from arthritis to fertility. He was proud to share his work - and we were his first-ever tourists.

Final Reflections

Peru gave us epic landscapes, rich traditions, and luxurious stays, but what stayed with me most was the spirit of the people. From the kind hospitality in the Andes to the resilience of children and families in Arequipa, and the environmental stewardship of the Amazon’s remote communities, this journey reminded me that travel is about connection as much as discovery.

If Peru isn’t on your list yet, it absolutely should be. Let’s start planning your own unforgettable adventure.

Susan Morley
Journeys Around the World
928.699.6899
www.journeysaroundtheworld.com

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